Handful Of My Scribbles: Nepal

Nepal

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“Because it’s there”

Climber George Mallory’s popular expression fits in just right when I recommend you to scale 8848 Mt. Worry not about climbing the Everest, it’s the tasteful bar and patio we are referring to situated facing the yard where the grass is always the greenest, flowers bloom the prettiest and amid a forest of Gokarna where deer dwell. Tempting already, isn’t it?

The official site of Gokarna Forest Resort will supply you with the basic information about this relaxing corner like its inviting French interior and well equipped bar serving world class beverages and summer drinks. But here, I tell you more. Here I tell you that Forest Chicken, Lamb chops and Spinach and Walnut pies (weird combinations are show stealers) are the names you have to remember if you want to order the runaway successes.

In whispers: I also have a secret to tell. The chef is not really just a chef; I think he is an artist splashing greens of basil, reds of beetroot, yellows of pumpkin and blacks of olive on the plates. He considers the work nothing inferior to graphic designing.

Chef Jibesh Pokharel has been looking after the entire kitchen of the facility for past couple of years. And it’s been a complete circle of earth around the sun since this particular bar and patio extended its services offering rainbow recipes of food and drinks. The sauces sizzle on the barbeque smoke every weekend. However, the menus keep on shuffling so dropping in often will only save you the regret of missing something.

The food dished up is continental, the flavors are authentic natural. The appearance is a spectacle and one is likely to understand more clearly what ‘eating with eyes’ really means. The anticipation of food coming to your table from the kitchen is satiated and intensified, both at once, right from the moment starters arrive.

I bet you’ll smile. First - because of the comprehension, second - because of the sight in front of you, third - you take the first bite and the counting is forgotten. After all, there are rarely some things that beat the ecstasy of good food.

“Start with the liquid first and then vegetables and then the meat” Chef Jibesh instructed when he saw one of us heading straight for the fried prawn kept aside cold tomato soup and stuffed mushroom. But since he might be in the kitchen when you visit, dip the prawn in the tepenard and munch on. That’s where all the ‘yumminess’ hides. The scooped miniature pumpkins teamed up with asparagus, lettuce, parsley, cheese and dried carrot followed by taste buds tingling Brusetta only leaves you wanting more.

That’s when the main course is appreciated with all hearts. Pasta coming together with prawn (or any other choice if you are not a seafood fan, like me) is unadulterated in savor. The next plate of Tender Loin Beef (or any other) Steak is balanced nutritionally – protein from meat, fibre from seasonal vegetables, minerals from spinach, antioxidants from tomatoes and all that our body needs. To top the desires of appetite, there is this distinct tang of onions cooked in balsamic vinegar that for once, might teleport you straight to Italy. MAMMA MIA!

Dessert! A long sigh of wistful reminiscence! See the effect?

Dessert never stays long on the papaya-cream splashed, chocolate speckled plate. Chocolate mousse, sprinkles of sugar caramelized cashew nuts, juicy fresh fruits and striking little flowers from the patch will make your inner child cry tears of joy for the perfect dessert assemble. Maybe that’s only me, never mind.

Having consumed the MSG loaded food with laden preservatives and artificial flavor almost every single day, there is nothing that denies our craving for fresh and clean bite. There is a constant seek for food prepared with precision and presented with passion, which is accurately why one should be at this bar and patio at Gokarna, aptly named 8848 MT. And also because it’s there.

(Published: ESSENCE Magazine, Year 4, Vol 5, August, 2015)
Photos Missing - Copyright issue

Go out, use your energy and help!

Rise for Nepal is not just an organization; it is rather a perspective, an initiation, and a structural team of young volunteers emerging with an outlook as to why and how irrespective of our cultural backgrounds and our personal preferences, we all can together Rise for Nepal.

Yes, we have got problems in our lives, in our careers perhaps, in our country surely and we have got solutions to them, not any quick fix but sturdy permanent ones and those solutions are disguised in form of youth energy. Unraveling them is the tricky part. However, if done right, that’s not a problem either. Need an example? Let’s go back to the starting of the year 2072 and let’s not grieve the destruction but value the coming together of the youngsters in the restoration work shedding their any other immediate plans or foreign dreams. Terming it – Rise of Youth, Thank you!

The historical but catastrophic run has brought us to a situation where we now have an opportunity to directly participate and use our capability whether as volunteers or paid – in both immediate relief and long term vision of providing an educative environment in a fully functioning school in villages. Rise of Youth effectively conducted trainings, entertainment programs with an aim to distract children from the traumatic circumstance teaching them the efficient ways in which they can deal with them or identical conditions in the days to come. It makes everyone happy to see a temporary school building standing with a peeling yet legible board of Shree Sunkoshi Primary School at Bhirpani. Alongside the construction work, distribution of stationeries, community healing programs were undertaken at Shree Kamaladevi Higher Secondary School, Badegaun, Buddha Primary School, Dolakha, Bright Horizon Children’s Home, Matat and Kalika Sharan Primary School, Hipung, Sindhupalchowk and others.

It’s been half a year since Rise for Nepal came into existence, and it is in high spirits to have been able to provide help in facing the aftermaths of the quake. The use of local resources smartly has always been one of the first priorities for the association undertaking psychological and physical support efforts chiefly among the discriminated groups. A NGO based in Kathmandu, a young enthusiastic team of doctors, architects, engineers, educators comprising of 200 individuals and 12 teams in total, working together with supporters from all over the world is bound to bring some hope.

Reaching out to places like, but not limited to, Rasuwa, Langtang, Dolakha Birkhot, Namjuing, Gorkha, Majuwa, Nagarjun have over mined the importance of the little labors of Rise for Nepal like basic food supplies, clothes, blankets distribution, medicine provision, medical camp installation, installation of Bunk Houses and sanitaria and likewise.

Now with a slow pace return to normal life and unstable political solidity rising in the headlines, it still is important to aware local communities about their roles in rebuilding Nepal. Currently focused more to bring care, infrastructure and self-reliance, this team is an inspiring and motivating organization in self. Each member are capable, every member can and will bring forward an energy, no matter how minute, hugely significant.

Because when the youth rise, Nepal shall rise too.

Day 4 could have incorporated the visit to Tatopani nearby but everybody was busy snoozing, especially the boys. Tadapani offered us a crystal clear remarkable sight of Macchapuchre and Annapurna once again that looked gigantic as it was even closer. The sun rays made the snow sparkle like they were made of tiny shiny diamonds.

On the contrary, that might not charm all. A friend in our group chose his nap over the view with a silly remark that he could see sunrise from his home in Kathmandu every morning. We probed him to find a better excuse. The foreigner Mama and Maiju, as the guide named them were from Argentina. Standing beside a German guy, a gentleman from Russia was smiling at every conversation of ours though I'm sure he didn't understand a thing. Doesn't sun rise in their country? Sure, it does but this exquisitely carving the shapes of the Himalayas. No.

Five hours of downhill, hunger, low energy level, spirit still high, basically we fulfilled all the necessary requisites for trekking though it was short to be called a real trekking.

We even got lost, but isn't that the whole point of travelling?

The sun shone brighter, making the white disappear and greens and browns and blacks reappeared. The more we descended the less snow the branches held. With the slated roofs of beautiful dwelling Ghandruk in sight, snow was out of it. We were still accompanied by the Himalayas as we traced our way back leaving the trails and hitting the bumpy jeep ride till Nayapul that found its continuity till Pokhara.

THERE AND BACK AGAIN (no hobbits included*)

Ask me for travel tips, please do. I suggest to negotiate the costs wherever you can.

In average, the charges are NRs.200 for breakfast, NRs.300 for lunch/dinner, NRs.200 per room at Tea-houses.

Plus conversations, laughter and stories around the fireplace-Absolutely FREE.

Do not litter, there are rubbish bins at regular intervals though they were filled with snow when we passed across them. Travelling in a group is always fun, plus, you can split the expenses.

With pocketful of memories, here's one last terrific tip that I can think of: Make your time. Pack your bags. Go Explore.

(Published: ESSENCE Magazine, Year 4, Vol. 01, January 2015, Unleash.)

'It’s cold' is the first remark you will make if you wake up at this altitude in the month of February. Imagine the struggle to brush your teeth and wash your face. Day 2 started like that, soon engulfing us in the wet woods, ferns and big rocks boulevard. The sound of waterfalls, chirping birds and dripping water droplets from the branches above is only trounced by a distinctive sound of bells tied to the neck of the asses used primarily for transportation. Safe Drinking water spots are available at every next settlement but take this suggestion of mine if you ever hike, carry a small bottle of Water purifying tablets or solution and taste the natural spring water.

You can guess how excited we were for snow when I let you know that we bothered almost every person we came across asking about what lies ahead of us and what they left behind them. Some agreed to our enthusiasm, some presaged but each person replied with warmth. Drenched enough in the rain the earlier day, none of us wished for a rain yet it showed up, like everything that we don’t want happens.

Almost immediately, our annoyance melted as the rain droplets started freezing and transformed itself to tiny white ice crystals. SNOW! We danced, jumped, slipped, played, photographed and carved snowmen out of mud mixed snow. We were witnessing snow, first time in our existence of 22 years (in average). Warming up our internal system with a cup of black tea cost us Rs.20 each cup. Still in budget.

The greens were slowly covered with white as we climbed up. Cold Clean Cottony White. Whites overlying the blue roofs, white where once used to be red rhododendrons, white above the yellow grass blooms, white wherever our eyes dwelt. No differentiation between any elements of nature; all white.

Our trekking poles supported us while we passed small bunches of tea houses still comprehending the first feel of snow; and then we reached Ghorepani, approximately six hours later we started.

Bargaining mode on. We reserved a warm cozy place and looking out of the window at that heavy snowfall, thanked our decision of staying at Banthanthi instead of Ulleri the previous day. Despite the weather outside, we passed that evening warm, not just because of the burning woods in the central heating system, but because of the affection and matchless generosity of the Tamang couple who looked after the Guest House where we were the only guests that night. Paying a little more for a stomach-full won't seem a big deal considering how difficult it is to carry food up there where nothing grows.

DAY ONE

We took a bus from Kathmandu on a Thursday afternoon after running all the necessary errands to crash in Pokhara by 11 pm which is very late given that there is no nightlife (Sad face). On the very day we started our always-limited-to-plans trip, warning struck us.

Never ever eat at a highway hotel without enquiring the rates first.

The wretched realization came to us only once we paid twice the price for a plates of fried fish. 'The Famous Malekhu Maccha' became almost metaphorical in our talks to aware ourselves about watching our pockets that time onward.

Starting point of the 4 days walk, a place known as Nayapul, Birethati is called so as a newly built bridge straps the two adjacent hills. The same bridge continues as a bumpy jeep track till the base of Ghandruk which we bumped on while closing our trail. The trekking trail diverts itself from Nayapul winding through a random placement of scattered settlements and freshly dug motor ways. The slated pavement accompanies a stream to its left that carries water clearer than a polished showroom glass in the cities.

What more does a Kathmandu-ite wish for amidst the dusty forever under construction roads? Ah, Fresh air.

I would be lying if I tell you it was all fun. Inexperienced legs start giving up when the uphill climb commences from Tikhedhunga to Ulleri. It was only Day 1 and a monologue started in my head for taking an unwise decision coming here. It was defeated however, maybe due to nature calling because the sprinkles of rain washed away the fatigue and few cheery foreigners we came across inspired us in more ways than one. Each one of them at least knew the word ‘Namaste’. Seeing them savoring the landscapes and the hospitality, enjoying the diversity and the unity, it was difficult to contain my joy knowing how welcoming we Nepalese are. Pride swept over us.

One of the most worn out trails in our country, The Annapurna Circuit

appeals quite a number of tourists even during off season. According to the pre-research we did before setting off, I'm glad we did some; to our excitement it noted probable snowfall. We had never experienced one before, none among the six of us.

Following the suggestion of a friendly tourist guide who very humorously named his customer couple as Mama and Maiju, whom we met almost every day on the route, we skipped Ulleri and rather decided to stay the night at Banthati. Since on a budget, we tried bargaining our lungs off to settle at a fair enough deal. Amid the roar of noisy wind, a perfect full shaped moon, star studded sky, reds of rhododendrons still holding onto the green branches and the warmth of blankets, we wished each other Happy Valentine’s Day and dozed off.

I was ten. Happy and zestful as always. Hopping from 4th standard to 5th, I had my results that day and holidays were in full swing. Holidays were always welcome, they still are. The more, the merrier.

That year, I was at my ThuloMom's home getting pampered, getting to eat all the kinds of junk foods, packed foods, candies, whatever i asked for (chauchau with MSG loaded masala, cream sandwiched biscuits, chips, cheese balls). I could sleep till midday. The playground was infinite and potato couching unlimited.

I noticed that that dawn phones rang more than ever. Some talks, some unfinished business, I reckoned. I had my share too. Dad called me to congratulate for I had excelled the school. I was on cloud nine. Little did I know I was going have a downward plunge the next moment. No, nothing to do with my results. I heard my dad's voice, the flat voice. At that age, I was not skilled enough to register either of the tensed tone or the sad pitch.

There was a certain resonance echoing his sorrow and mourning; his grief.

Grief of losing a father figure, not just his but the whole nation and to have let go of the thought that the supreme royal family was invincible.

Nepal misses you, terribly.

I may not have been able to understand the agony but I sure felt endangered, like we were a group of hatch-lings waiting for our parent birds to return and they were shot dead by a random hunter. I feel that ache now, the anguish and the exasperation.

But helpless as we always have been, the most we can do is offer you condolences. This obituary is not for the ones who died but for the law and our duties as our beloved king's subjects which simultaneously deceased with our royal family.

I'm grown up now and I realize the bargains I made to God at the age of ten were of no use. I would have eaten boiled foods instead of those junk, or starve myself. I would have agreed to repeat 4th standard. 7 days school was fine, who needs holidays? I would have happily turned the TV off; stayed up all night and sacrificed my pleasures, I would have done and will still do everything if that day could just change.